In The Pink

Since my arrival in landlocked Hungary, most of my intake of Class Pisces has been of the tinned variety. I come over all excited when Mrs. Inspector gets the tin opener out of the drawer, and am reduced to rubbing up against her leg in anticipation. I've also had a rather tasty fisherman's soup, or halászlé, at a dingy bistro at the top end of Paulay Ede Utca. And one day, I'm set on purchasing a whole live carp from a market and smacking its head on the kerb to send it to Fishalla before doing all sorts of unspeakable things to its carcass. But what I really miss, is a spanking fresh bit of sea fish. So, it was with lightened wallet that I returned home earlier this week with 2 chunky salmon fillets, procured from Culinaris, where etiolated ex-pats can be seen staring hungrily at the various imported wares like dissolute vampires.

This is a pretty dish, the rose sauce and the gentle pink of the poached salmon contrasting with the autumn hues of the salad

Poached salmon fillet with pink sauce and warm lentil salad

Allow one salmon fillet per maw. In a snug saucepan just large enough to accommodate the fillets in a single layer, add an equal mix of white wine and water to cover. Add 6 peppercorns, some chopped green herb stems (I used parsley and dill), a bay leaf, a chopped celery rib, and a small chopped onion or shallot.

Bring this slowly to a simmer, and cook gently for 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool in the stock.

To make the lentil salad, put 80g Puy lentils per person in a saucepan, and add enough of the strained stock from the salmon to cover by a finger's width. Top up with water if necessary. Bring to the boil and then reduce the heat and cook, uncovered, for around 35 minutes until the lentils are cooked. Watch the stock level, but ideally the liquid should have mostly evaporated by the end of cooking. Drain.

While the lentils are cooking, make a mirepoix of 1 carrot, 1 celery rib and 1 onion. Sweat gently in 2 tbps olive oil for 10 minutes until softened. Add ½ tsp chili pepper flakes, a handful of finely diced button mushrooms, and cook gently for a further 10 minutes until the mushrooms give up some of their liquid. Now add the cooked lentils, a bunch of finely chopped parsley, a tsp of finely chopped sage leaves, 1 crushed garlic clove, a little crumbled feta and 1 tomato, also finely chopped. Season generously, add a glug of olive oil.

To make the pink sauce, mix 1 heaped tsp Erős Pista with 1 tbsp tejföl. You poor foreigners can substitute these for harissa and crème fraiche accordingly.

To serve, place a piece of salmon atop a mound of lentils. Spoon a good heaped teaspoon of pink sauce over the salmon.

Born up a tree.